My previous two posts on this subject painted a less than attractive picture of living in London. They need to be balanced, to some degree, by this post about the positive side of London Life. After all, if it was that terrible, nobody would stay there, would they?
London has many parks, and most are well-known, even to outsiders. Perhaps the best two parks are the ones most used by locals, and less known to visitors to the centre. Primrose Hill, between Camden Town, and St. John’s Wood, offers one of the best views over London available from anywhere in the Capital. A short climb up the hill, which is surrounded by a small park, rewards the visitor with a marvellous vista, stretching across Central London to the river, and beyond. When it has been snowing, toboggans and sleds appear suddenly, and local children and adults alike, take advantage of the steep incline, to enjoy the closest you can get to winter sport in the City. On Firework Night, or New Year’s Eve, locals make the climb, in any weather, to enjoy the free show of fireworks from every area of London, visible as from no other location. On hot summer days, lovers, friends, and families take picnics to the hill and the park, to enjoy the open space, and get some relief from the heat inside the area’s small homes. There are occasional tourists, wandering there from Camden Market, or after a visit to nearby Regent’s Park Zoo, but most are local people, making full use of this amenity.
On the other side of London, south of the Thames, lies the area of Greenwich and Blackheath. This is also on high ground, and the park houses the famous Royal Observatory, with the whole area being a must-see for travellers on riverboat trips along the Thames. The view from this high point offers the splendour of The Queens House, The National Maritime Museum, and the Old Naval College and Hospital. You can also see the Millennium Dome, now called The O2 Arena.
You will also see tourists inside the grounds of The Observatory, straddling the line of the Prime Meridian, thus being photographed in both halves of the World at once. South of the park, and across the busy main road, is the large public grassland called Blackheath. This is popular with kite-fliers, and home to football grounds for minor league players, as well as vast areas where any outdoor activity can be enjoyed. In the small town of Greenwich, there is a popular weekend market, and two famous vessels moored in dry dock, as visitor attractions; these are The Cutty Sark, a tea clipper that is the symbol of Greenwich to many, and the Gipsy Moth lV, the first ship to be sailed single-handed around the World. The area is best visited outside the summer tourist boom, with the leaves turning brown on the trees in the park, and stronger winds, ideal for kites.
The other great joy of living in London, and the one that I miss the most, is the ability to eat out, with a selection of restaurants and cafes unsurpassed anywhere in Europe. This applies especially to the central area, north of Oxford Street, and stretching up to Camden Town, and beyond. I do not believe that there is any cuisine that is not catered for. I know of Mongolian, Armenian, and Eritrean restaurants, alongside the more familiar Turkish, Chinese, Japanese, and Greek eateries. Arabian tea bars, with customers sitting outside on large cushions, sipping mint tea, or enjoying shisha pipes, Italian espresso bars, popular since the 1950’s, and traditional English cafes, serving a full breakfast, all sit side by side.
When I was young, eating out was restricted to Pie and Mash, Jellied Eels, Fish and Chips, or the occasional foray to Limehouse, to enjoy a basic Chinese meal. By the late 1970’s, this had all changed, and anything imaginable was available.
During the last 12 years, I have had to travel no further than the area from Charlotte Street to Camden Town, to find delightful restaurants, at all price levels. In Camden alone, the choice is so great, I did not manage to visit them all, during the time I lived there. From the recent addition of the mighty Gilgamesh, which is worth a visit to marvel at the interior, even if you do not wish to eat there, to the older establishments on Parkway, and every street in between, there is something to cater for every taste. Inverness Street, a pedestrianised street market, is home to no less than six restaurants, including Hache, where they serve the best burgers in London, and Bar Solo, where you can enjoy a three course meal, or just have a coffee outside, and watch the life on Camden’s streets. Further along, there is Bar Gansa, a Tapas Bar, with live flamenco on Mondays, and Made in Brasil, a place with a great atmosphere, especially when Brazil are playing football! I have enjoyed many happy evenings, and some great food, in all of these, and more.
So, not all of London Life is to be demonised, or reviled. Wandering around Soho, or Chinatown, can be relaxing and enjoyable too. The unusual bookshops of Charing Cross Road, or the antique shops of Camden Passage in Islington, provide a nice diversion when you have time to spare. When the tourist season is at a low ebb, and the workers commuting in and out have gone home, London can offer much to those who actually live there. I am glad that I did live there, and equally glad that I no longer do.
Pete, I am using your posts as a guide to ensure I see all aspects of London in June!
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Thanks, John. I would love to make it down there to accompany you, but I cannot guarantee being able to leave Ollie at the moment. If you think of any ‘London questions’, please ask. I will kick off by recommending this Camden restaurant, close to the centre of London. Order the complete Mezze, the best in London. Sit back, and the food just keeps coming! For red wine, the Greek wine Othello red is great. ๐
https://alexanderthegreatgreekrestaurant.co.uk/
Best wishes, Pete.
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And definitely go to Greenwich, by riverboat from Westminster Pier, opposite the Houses of Parliament. It’s a great return trip! ๐
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Thanks Pete!
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Nice, Pete!
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Always good to balance out the negatives, Jennie. ๐
Best wishes, Pete.
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Yes, it is. Best to you, Pete.
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I suppose the Olympic Park is pretty spectacular too and the newer Rooftop gardens such as the Crossrail Place Roof Garden.
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I expect so, Jude. But they are after my time. ๐
Best wishes, Pete. x
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Do you never go back for a wander around to see the new stuff?
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I went back once, for a wedding. But I just went to the wedding (in SE19) and came home the next day. I found it overwhelming, and a little depressing too.
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I think once you get used to the quiet of the countryside towns and cities are overwhelming. So much noise for one thing. And people.
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I don’t think I would want to live there, Pete, but I love visiting.
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It very much depends on where you live in the city, and how much money you have. That can be said of a lot of cities all over the world of course.
Thanks, Robbie.
Best wishes, Pete.
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“…Bar Solo, where you can enjoy a three course meal…”
You forgot Bar Trio, where you can enjoy a one-course meal.
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Nicely done, David. ๐
Best wishes, Pete.
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“[I]f it was that terrible, nobody would stay there, would they?” I am not so sure. It is all what one is accustomed to that determine a whole lot. Once, there it could be impossible to leave for a whole lot of reasons. Never-the-less, there is a lot of good things there as you report. ๐
Warmest regards, Theo
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That was an intentionally flippant introduction. But you are correct. Once embroiled in the metropolis, leaving is not as easy as it sounds. ๐
Best wishes, Pete.
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Bar Gansa was one of my favourites when I used to go to loads of gigs in Camden. When it comes to parks it is hard to beat St James’.
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We may have sat across from each other in Bar Gansa! I still miss it. ๐
St James’s Park has pelicans of course, which gives it added appeal.
Best wishes, Pete.
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I loved the fact that it still served food at midnight.
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Love this Pete, the other side of London that I haven’t read about.
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I tried to cover most aspects of city life in these three posts, Arlene.
Best wishes, Pete.
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While Iโm not sure I could be brave enough to try jellied eels, itโs nice to know London has become such a haven for foodies. I also now have โLetโs Go Fly a Kiteโ from Mary Poppins stuck in my head for some reason.๐ค
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Having anything from that film stuck in your head is a worry indeed. I hope the song goes away soon.
I don’t like jellied eels, if that helps. ๐
Best wishes, Pete.
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Food is the key….I judge when I was traveling by the street food……Bangkok and Fez had the best……chuq
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Over the past 20 years, ‘street food’ has found a real home in London, Chuq. You can literally buy any type of food, from anywhere in the world.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Reblogged this on beetleypete and commented:
Part 3 of my old 2012 posts about London. More positive this time!
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There’s always a good and bad side to every place… Nice posts! ๐
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