Eating the Sixties

As strange as it may seem now, there was a time before KFC, Subway, McDonald’s, Burger King, Domino Pizza, and Doner Kebabs. All of these fast food outlets were completely unknown to me as a youngster in London, during the 1960’s. They did not exist anywhere in Britain, but that is not to say that we did not enjoy fast food, far from it. Eating on the go was as much a part of my youth, as it is for people today. There were even burgers, but not the chains so familiar now.

So, what did we like to eat then? There was fish and chips of course. Although some fish and chip shops had tables, I cannot remember ever eating them inside. They were either wrapped up, to take home to eat, or ‘left open’, for immediate consumption. In those days, old newspapers were still used as wrappers, and we rarely bought the fried fish to eat when walking, as it was too messy. The choice would usually be a portion of chips, accompanied by a pie, fried fish roe, or a saveloy. A saveloy is reminiscent of a sausage, but very different. Much spicier, finer ground, and containing ‘meat’ of unknown provenance, all secured in a bright-red, artificial skin. It sounds awful when you read it like that, but tasted great. I might also get a pickled onion; these were huge things, kept in jars on the counter, normally alongside pickled eggs. The whole thing would then be doused in a covering of vinegar, then showered with salt. If you were lucky, the owner might add some ‘crispy bits’, the scooped-out pieces of fried flour that fell off of the fish. It was a decidedly unhealthy meal, but always tasted delicious.

In London, we also had the once-famous pie and mash shops. The leading suppliers were Manzi’s, and Arment’s, who had both been selling pie and mash, together with eels, cooked or jellied, since Victorian times. Their restaurants had rows of marble-topped tables, always busy, and full of diners. In the windows, large tanks of live eels swam around, intertwined, and unaware of their fate. Everything was made on the premises, and the pies were of a type unique to those sort of establishments. They had a well-baked top, and a softer underside, almost like a pudding. The strange colour of the contents was best left undiscovered, and to this day, I have no idea what ‘meat’ was inside them. The mashed potato was firm, and delivered in scoops. The chosen dish would then be covered in a watery fluid, known as ‘liquor’. This was bright green, and not to my taste. When ordering, I would have to quickly add, ‘no liquor please’. Most people thought that I was crazy to forgo this delicacy, which I later discovered was a concoction of parsley, vinegar, water, and I firmly believe, green dye. The older people would eat eels, usually served cold, with a white aspic jelly, in pots. They would normally have bread with this, and added the disgusting habit of spitting out the central segment bones of the eels as they ate. A few would opt for a bowl of hot, stewed eels, but I always had pie and mash. This was a meal that you could take away, to eat at home, but not one to be eaten in the street. The exception to this was the jellied eels. They would also be sold from stalls, in markets, or outside pubs, and would normally be eaten nearby, as the bowls would be returned. As far as I know, most of these pie and mash shops are now closed, driven out of business by the American fast-food chains, and a victim of changing tastes. A great shame, if you ask me.

There were no home delivery options then, but you could get a Chinese meal, as long as you lived near Chinatown, or the Limehouse district of East London, both areas popular with the Chinese community. I had my first Chinese meal at a young age, in a small restaurant in Limehouse. It was more like a cafe, without the fancy decor and ornamentation so familiar today. The menu was not extensive, and designed for Western tastes, as well as our limited knowledge of what constituted Chinese food. This was generally Chow Mein, Chop Suey, or Sweet and Sour Pork. Nonetheless, I thought it very exotic, and tasty as well. When I was a bit older, Indian Restaurants also appeared, though I did not have my first Indian meal until my late teens.

Then there was the Wimpy Bar. Named after the character in the Popeye cartoons, Wimpy Bars first appeared in London, as early as 1954; they soon spread to every district, and later, all over the UK. This was a whole new experience for us. The coffee, served in glass cups, was frothy, and tasted really good. You could also buy milk shakes, and Coca-Cola of course. And for food, you could choose from a varied menu of burgers, frankfurters, and grills. There were photographs on the menus, so you could see what your meal would look like when it arrived. We may think this incredibly naff nowadays, but then it was actually exciting! The chips were called French Fries, and were very different to the thick, soggy chips we could get in fish and chip shops. They were slim and crispy, and soon became a favourite with me. As well as the novelty of the inexpensive food, these provided a social meeting point for young people, for the price of a coffee. It was rare to take anything away from a Wimpy Bar. The whole point was to dress smart, meet your friends, and ‘hang out’, occasionally buying an extra drink, to avoid being asked to leave. The local Wimpy Bars were heaven to me, with one a short walk from home, and another close to East Street Market, where we always went at weekends. I spent many happy hours sitting in them, sipping coffee, eating a ‘Wimpy Grill’, and feeling very grown up. It was a totally different experience to eating in a Burger King, or McDonald’s, and I still lament their passing today.

I must not forget the smaller snacks that we regularly bought, usually during school meal breaks, or on the way home from school. The local bakers was part of a small chain, and called ‘Edwards’. They sold small, greasy doughnuts at a penny (old money,1d) each. They were sweet and crunchy, incredibly cheap, and gave a good energy burst. Edwards also sold Bread Pudding; this was a spicy, thick cake, full of currants and sultanas, and as the name suggests, made from bread. My Mum also made this, but at only 3d a slice, it was great value from the bakers, for a filling snack. I know that they also sold hot sausage rolls, and Cornish Pasties, but I never bought them as I rarely had enough money left.

I am sure that other regions of the UK must have had regional snacks, that inspire the same nostalgic memories. I have certainly tried Scotch Pies in Scotland, a delicious minced beef pie, encased in a short pastry. In the North of England, I have been appalled to find a huge slop of bright green, processed mushy peas dolloped onto my pie and chips, without being asked. There must be many others. If you remember them, please let me know in the comments. Of course, I later tried Pizza, all the major burger chain products, and KFC. I have eaten my share of Doner kebabs, and sampled foods from all over the world, but the memories of saveloy and chips and pie and mash remain, and I can still taste them, to this day.

4 thoughts on “Eating the Sixties

  1. I remember Wimpy bars in Wakefield where I’d meet up with friends to have a milkshake when I was too young to visit pubs, Mods on scooters! Fish and chips and mushy peas with ‘scraps’ were a treat, I’d even volunteer to fetch them and fish cakes which were pieces of fish with a slice of potato between were much better than the mashed potato type with the merest hint of fish. My brother took me to the first pizza restaurant when I was 16, and I loved KFC, I have never been a lover of McDonalds except for their milkshakes – so thick! But my youngest son worked at Burger King so I sometimes had a burger there whilst waiting to pick him up. I never have eaten a pickled egg though 😉
    J xx

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    1. Ahh, Wakefield, and mushy peas. Never had those fish cakes with big slices of potato, and I didn’t rate the thick nose-freezing shakes from McD. I always thought that they should be in a tall glass, with fluted sides! Thanks Jude, hope it brought back good memories. x

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      1. Oh yes, but fortunately I can still remember what I had for dinner today 🙂
        And one of my most precious memories was going to John Lewis in Sheffield with my mother (better shopping) and she would allow me to have a coke float, I always wanted a knickerbocker glory, but it was too expensive,

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