That evening, we returned to the busy area close to the Astronomical Clock. We had noticed a cellar restaurant there, decorated in a traditional style, and offering an extensive menu including different types of dumplings, and Beef Goulash, which we were keen to try in one of the places where it is a speciality. Once seated downstairs on the stout wooden furniture, it was obvious that this place had changed little over decades. Various hunting trophies adorned the walls, together with old artifacts, and a small stage promised entertainment of some kind. It was already quite busy, and there were local diners as well as tourists, which was a favourable indication that the food might be good.
For a starter, we ordered a mixed meat platter to share, which was to be accompanied with bread and pickles. We both requested the goulash and dumplings to follow. The elderly waiter advised us that the starter was ‘quite big’, but we were tired and hungry, so we didn’t think this would be a problem. Soon after, some musicians arrived on stage, including an accordionist, and they began to play traditional music. Although this would not normally be the sort of thing we liked, it was eminently suitable for the surroundings, and with some of the diners joining in with clapping, the atmosphere was most enjoyable. When the starter arrived, on a huge block of wood that filled the centre of the large table, it was hard to believe that it wasn’t intended for six people, rather than two. A selection of different sausages, all huge, was accompanied by chunks of pork, assorted cooked meats, two baskets of various breads, and plates of delicious pickles. The waiter had been right; we had literally bitten off more than we could chew.
I was determined to make the most of the evening, and worked through the meat selection until nothing was left. In truth, we had really eaten enough, and by the time the large bowls of goulash and plates of dumplings arrived, it was starting to feel like one of those American eating contests. Despite a good effort, we didn’t manage to finish the main course. The fact that we ate most of it was a tribute to how tasty it was, but to say that we were full would be an understatement. We stayed there for a while longer, enjoying the merry music, before settling the very reasonable bill, and wandering off into the night, to walk off some of that mighty repast.
The next day was colder, and very dull. We planned to take a bus tour, and followed the advertising posters to a side road not far from the hotel. A small bus was parked there with signs on it, so we guessed we had found the right place. I was surprised to be greeted by an American man, who was the guide. He was used to this of course, and he quickly explained that he was married to a Czech lady, and had lived in the city for four years. The tour would take in an overview of the city, including the famous Prague Castle, which dominated the highest ground above the river. For a small extra fee, he could arrange for an English-speaking guide to take us on a tour of the castle too. We agreed to this, and he produced a young man, a student, to accompany us on the bus. After waiting ten minutes past the scheduled time in case anyone else turned up, we departed, the only customers, with the two guides, and driver. As a result, the trip was very informal, and the American guide sat chatting to us, rather than going through his structured routine.
It was soon apparent that he didn’t think much of the Czech Republic, and was keen to return to the USA once he could arrange to take his wife along. He rambled on a lot about ‘Communist-Era’ decay, but his local experience was interesting too, as he showed us the areas where the wealthy locals lived, as we made our way up to the castle. Much of the present castle was constructed in the 18th Century, and it is also the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. The views over the city are the best you can find, and it was such a shame that the day was so overcast and damp. Our young guide showed us around, though due to the time of year, many of the rooms and most of the exteriors were not open to tourists. There was also some sort of conference going on, which closed down even more of the rooms inside. Part of the castle complex is the Cathedral of St Vitus, an imposing Gothic structure dating from the 14th Century. Unfortunately for us, the interior was closed to the public that day. For those of you interested to see more, here are some Wikipedia links.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Vitus_Cathedral
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prague_Castle
I was able to take some photos, but I was not at all happy with them, as it was difficult to get decent angles to shoot from. Please click on them if you wish to see the large file.
It was the kind of dull day where even the breathtaking views across to the city were rendered flat and uninteresting by the lack of light and colour.
The tour continued with a look at the concrete TV tower in the hills. The guide thought this was ‘ugly and typically Communist’. I actually quite liked the imposing Brutalist style of it. Here are some good photos of it from Wikipedia, just click the link. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%BDi%C5%BEkov_Television_Tower
Our tour concluded back in the side street, with our guide suggesting that we return ‘in better weather.’ It was good to have seen what we did, as we would have been very reluctant to attempt the walk up to these sights on foot.
On the night of Julie’s 50th, we dressed for the occasion, and waited for the promised ‘limousine’ to take us to the restaurant for the pre-arranged meal. The concierge arrived with a black Mercedes car, and drove us to the trendy area where the supposedly top restaurant was situated. As in many cities, it was in a run-down place, undergoing an element of regeneration. Somewhat embarrassingly, it was also very close to our hotel, only a short drive, and easily reached by walking. Had we known, I wouldn’t have insisted on the car. I apologised, and told him not to bother to collect us, as we would walk back. The place was full, and had a very classy yet urbane feel to it. Shown to our table, we were told that the meal was a set-menu, and all food and drinks were included. What followed was one of the best restaurant experiences of my life. Delicious food, beautifully cooked and presented, with friendly staff, who went out of their way to please. I only wish that I could remember the name of it! I do remember that my main course was Veal Cheeks, something very hard to get in the UK. I had never had them before, and they were without doubt one of the tastiest things I have ever eaten. I know that Veal offends many sensibilities, but I just cannot apologise, as it was such a wonderful meal.
So that was Prague. Would I go again? Perhaps. I have been told that the last couple of years have seen the city become a venue for raucous stag and hen parties, and that there can be a lot of drunkenness there during the peak season. We experienced nothing like this, but then it was January. If you are within easy travelling distance, or able to include it in a wider tour, I am certain that you will be charmed by this historical East European city.
beetleypete 
Ah, if only your guide had bothered to dig a little deeper into the city’s history. From Josevov, the Jewish Quarter, where the (in)famous Gollem story originated, to the tiny plaques around the city pointing at bullet-ridden walls from the dark period of the Nazi occupation, to details like the Hussite symbol of a Graal atop the gate leading to the main square, the city is a treasure to be relished! On top of that, add the glorious food (I fell in love with Czech cuisine) and you have an amazing city 🙂
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We loved the food to. If the weather had not been so cold (It was January) we might have seen more. 🙂
Thanks, Nicholas.
Best wishes, Pete.
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What a bloody good post! You’ve got a knack for this, all the atmosphere with the weather and the guide and the palace and the food. Sounds like I’d go for the food alone but where is the picture of the lovely Julie and you on her birthday mate? I hope the guide has by now moved back to America with his wife. Can be tough to get a visa these days. 😉 I was disappointed to hear about the Cathedral, the first time we went to St Paul’s it was closed and fortunately we were able to go there before we flew out. Maybe time to look into a return trip eh?
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If I had another chance to travel, I would probably try somewhere I hadn’t been, like Budapest, or Tallin. Prague is definitely worth the effort though.
Glad you enjoyed these, Lloyd.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Budapest would be great, I recently caught a show on Youtube called Travel Man with Richard Ayoyade and they did Budapest in two days and it looked great. Karen and I have been going through all of them. He’s done Venice, Naples, Rome, Amsterdam, Helsinki, Budapest, Miami, Seville, Paris, Dubai, Hong Kong, Valencia, Copenhagen. I’d have to say I really enjoyed Rome, Constanipole, Miami, Seville, Paris, Copenhagen, Budapest….well you get the idea. Budapest looked good. St Petersburg too……..So where’s Tallin?
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Tallin is in Estonia. I know that travel man show, and have seen almost all of them. I have been to Rome, which was fantastic, Paris many times of course, and Leningrad (I still call it that) quite a few times too. Leningrad is a great place for a short break. Wonderful architecture, and easy to get around too. There are many European cities I haven’t been to, but I have been to Amsterdam (great), and Berlin (excellent). My stepson has been to Budapest, and really recommends it.
I would also recommend Barcelona, one of the few foreign places I would actually want to live in. Istanbul is a real experience. I have been there twice.
Cheers, Pete.
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I only hear good things about Spain and Portugal. Oh so many places to go Pete. I’m glad you’ve been to so many and hope we both see a few more. Also glad you like the show. I just started watching it last month after I got back from England. Getting off track but have you ever heard the song Leningrad by Billy Joel. I’m quite moved by it.
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There’s a whole part of Europe which is still getting discovered by us Westerners. I’ve heard Bulgaria is beautiful and my sister honeymooned in Montenegoro which looked beautiful. That part of the world always looked so beautiful as I saw it through the lens of so much sufferring in the 1990s. Maybe a brighter future awaits for all the countries in the region. I went to high school with a lot of refugees from there.
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Istanbul, that’s the bloody word I was looking for and the spelling. 🙂 I was shocked by how trendy it looked.
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I look forward to your upcoming Tallin post. 🙂
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Well Pete it’s getting close to bed time here as a wise man once wrote, best wishes Pete and I’ll catch you on the flip side of the Earth’s rotation. Regards Lloyd.
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I vaguely recall the Billy Joel song, but that’s about it. I have been to Bulgaria, but it was a summer holiday on the coast, so I didn’t get to see Sofia, though we did go to Nessebar, which was interesting.
Sleep tight, in upside-down land!
Cheers, Pete.
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🙂
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Hi Pete, Loved the photos of Prague, never been perhaps I should go! even just to see that magnificent clock. Best wishes Pebbs x
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Thanks Pebby. If you get the chance, it is an ideal place for a short break. English is widely spoken, and you can get around the centre easily too. Take care. XX
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I visited Prague but many years back (in 1991 if I recall correctly, wall still up and all). I remember it as a charming place, great people, and at the time very cheap for our pockets (I was still living in Spain at the time). I wouldn’t mind visiting again at some point, but I suspect what you comment about stag nights, etc, might be true.
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Thanks Olga. That info about the Stag and Hen parties came courtesy of Eddy Winko. He is in Poland, so much nearer. I still believe that out of the usual ‘season’, that Prague has much to offer, at least for a short break.
Thanks for the RT too, and best wishes as always. Pete.x
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The “like” portion is loading too long again on my PC. What a lovely way to celebrate a birthday, exploring places and discovering something new.
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Thanks Arlene. despite the time of year, it was still a very interesting trip, and one I would recommend.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Of the two restaurants in your account, I would prefer the one in the cellar because the atmosphere sounds very appealing. I enjoyed reading about your experiences in Prague.
The header on your blog is quite beautiful, and I have to wonder where the photo was taken. On my screen, the blog text is a very light gray, and doesn’t offer much contrast with the white background. For me, it’s harder to read than was the text in the previous format. Maybe I need to tweak my settings?
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I am aware that the text is lighter David, and might be improved a little by lowering the screen brightness. However, at least for me, the larger font makes it easier to read, and feedback has generally been positive. I will explore a little, and see if I can make it darker.
Still learning about these wordpress options!
Best wishes as always. Pete.
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My parents went to Prague many years ago. My father loved the red rooftops and did a watercolor painting while he was there.
I enjoyed your account of your visit there. I enjoy hotel and restaurant reviews.
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Thanks Gretchen. I expect the roofs look a lot nicer in better light. Glad you enjoyed these two articles.
Best wishes as always, Pete.
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Great post Pete and the new theme, I forgot to mention how much I like it, the font especially. I must look to change the font on mine. Prague can be a lovely place, especially if you have a personal guide. I still have memories of a meal in a restaurant that overlooked a convent across the valley. As we tucked into our main the ladies across the way embarked upon a game of volley ball, in full habits. A very surreal sight. All the best from a sunny Poland.
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Cheers Eddy. I am liking the new style and fonts a lot. Much clearer, and easier on the old eyes. I used the info about the stag and hen parties that I got from you. You’re a lot closer, so you can probably go again one day.
Best wishes to all, Pete.
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A trip for your wife’s birthday, very nice, Pete! Guess they didn’t have ‘doggie bags’ available for all your extra food, eh? You could have taken a break and had a midnight snack later on.
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That’s a thought gp. I have to confess that it didn’t occur to me at the time, but it was a great meal, all the same.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Now you’re talking GP!
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Pete, what a lovely part 2 for the travels to celebrate your wife’s birthday.. Your clear and concise post makes me feel as if I’ve been there too. Thanking you ever so much for sharing.
Take care and happy blogging to ya, from Laura ~
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Thanks Laura. I am pleased to have ‘taken you’ to Prague. Glad you enjoyed it.
Best wishes as always, Pete.
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